Having a telephone shower can be a great advantage when it comes to washing your childrens hair and rinsing out the tub. It allows you to rinse the shampoo out very easily and can actually turn the chore into a little fun at the same time. It is an easy thing to install and can be done by anyone.
Saturday, February 12, 2011
Thursday, January 27, 2011
Plumbing SUGGESTION page
If you would like to know or possibly see how something works related to plumbing; I will do my best to accommodate you......Thanks very much and have a good day.
QUESTION page....
Anyone with a plumbing problem leave a question and I will reply as soon as possible. Thanks and have a good day.
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
Wax Seal Installations For Toilets.
Although toilets have changed dramatically over the years; the seals between the bowel and the floor have not changed much until now. Over the past 2 years fernco has come up with a toilet gasket that is very impressive. It is made of a neoprene rubber that adheres to the bottom of your toilet. I was a little skeptical at first to say the least the first time I used one, but it worked remarkably well. Although only on the market for a short time this gasket definitely has its advantages. The only down side I see with it is that it cannot be used on a toilet that has already had a wax seal on it unless it is stripped clean of all the wax; as the adhesive on the neoprene bonds with the toilet quite well. I have used them on many new installations and have had remarkable success.
1. When replacing an old toilet with a new one, I would look at the new neoprene style first, but a new wax seal will work just fine as well.
2. If you have put ceramic tile down and have not raised the floor flange it is a must to double up your wax seal if you are not replacing the toilet. If you are replacing the toilet, I would consider the neoprene.
3. You have changed your floor flange, are going with regular flooring and the floor flange only has 4 holes in it; all that is required is a regular wax seal.
4. The floor flange you are putting in is going into a piece pipe, perhaps a piece of 3 inch pipe sticking through your basement floor ....yes....They have made a floor flange that glues into a piece of 3 inch. very handy if the concrete is finished up against the pipe. You cut it off flush and glue your flange in. The floor flange is very thick and a thin wax seal is the only thing to be used inthis application.
5. When taking up a toilet and changing the wax seal and the pipe coming through the floor is 4 inch; the wax seal for this application I prefer is one with the plastic sleeve it. It is a little thicker and works very well when the pipe is 4 inch.6. Little tip....when setting a toilet on the floor and it is a little rocky, I place a COPPER penny or 2 on the back side of the toilet on either side to stop the rocking. Always does the job. I occasionally will use brass when I have them.
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Installing a Frost Free Faucet Correctly
Installing a frost free faucet is a simple task and will work for years with the correct installation. I have had many people say that they have put a new one in and when they went to turn on the water to wash their car in the spring they had a serious leak in it. The secret to installing a faucet correctly is to make sure the faucet is grading the right way. If the faucet is grading back into the house the water will stay in the faucet assembly and split. That's a guarentee with cold winters. Install the faucet so that all the water in it runs out of it. I know it sounds like common sense,but many people end up with frozen faucets becuase of this reason. when installing it place some support permanently under the faucet inside the house so that it will not fall out. this will make all the difference in the world
good luck and may your grass grow green......by all means leave a question if you wish.
Tuesday, January 25, 2011
How to go from cast iron or copper pipe to plastic.
You are doing some renovations and have an old cast iron pipe or a galvanized pipe in your home. You would like to run plastic, but the job seams too big. Well, they have come up with some simple solutions when it comes to your project. Mind you, there is some work involved, but it is easy to figure out, especially with the fittings that will take you to plastic pipe. Fernco couplings have been around for a number of year and are ideal for many different applications.
Castiron pipe is exceptionally hard. When this pipe is new it cuts very well with a set of ridgid chain cutters. As time goes along and many years pass, some castiron can lose their hardness. So it is most important to know that if you are going to cut castiron pipe with a chain cutter it is possible to crush it instead of cutting it straight. I personally use a reciprocating saw and Lennox blades with 30 teeth per inch and I try and get the Gold grade as well. They have the longest balde life that I have found to date.You will more then likely go through 2 or 3 of them to cut a piece of 4 inch cast.
Once you have performed this task; it is just a matter of loosening off the clamps and sliding the coupling over the pipe and then tightening the stainless steel clamp. Now you are ready to run your plastic pipe.
It is also possible to replace just a piece of castiron or galvanized pipe with plastic by cutting out the section that is bad and use 2 couplings.
good luck....and ask a question
Castiron pipe is exceptionally hard. When this pipe is new it cuts very well with a set of ridgid chain cutters. As time goes along and many years pass, some castiron can lose their hardness. So it is most important to know that if you are going to cut castiron pipe with a chain cutter it is possible to crush it instead of cutting it straight. I personally use a reciprocating saw and Lennox blades with 30 teeth per inch and I try and get the Gold grade as well. They have the longest balde life that I have found to date.You will more then likely go through 2 or 3 of them to cut a piece of 4 inch cast.
Once you have performed this task; it is just a matter of loosening off the clamps and sliding the coupling over the pipe and then tightening the stainless steel clamp. Now you are ready to run your plastic pipe.
It is also possible to replace just a piece of castiron or galvanized pipe with plastic by cutting out the section that is bad and use 2 couplings.
good luck....and ask a question
Speedway Supplies For Your Faucets, Toilets And Dishwasher
So, you have ran new waterlines to your sink and put on compression valves or you have discovered a leak in your chrome supply going to your plumbing fixture. This is perhaps the easiest jobs to tackle for the average homeowner. Supplies for this job are called speedways. They come in different lengths and materials. Although it is not required by any means to make the connection to the faucet on your basin; it will be needed for your kitchen sink, a basin wrench can save you a lot of time and agony. It is very helpful in the removal of the old supply on the faucets.
Speedway supplies are made in polyethelene, chrome (copper) and braided hose.
Polyethylene supplies come in 12, 20, 30 and 36 inch lengths. They are the cheapest of the supplies to purchase, but last forever. When connecting these supplies to your valve on your waterline it is a must that you use a plastic 3/8th ferrule. The brass ferrule that comes with your shut off valve should not be used on the poly supply. I would also suggest getting a cheap pair of plastic pipe cutters that could save you from a few permanent scares. These cutters can be used for a few different jobs around the house, so it is a good purchase. They also make a poly supply for your toilet that comes in 12 and 20 inch lengths. Depending on the homeowner; if you are not concerned about the look of the poly supply for your toilet; it is the cheaper way to go and will do as good a job as any other type.
Chrome speedway supplies have been around for years. They are made of copper and have a chrome finish to make your plumbing job look finished in style. These supplies come in 12, 20 and 30 inch lengths. This style supply is ideal for places where the supplies are going to be seen. They can be cut to length by using a pair of regular or mini copper cutters. The connection from your valve to the chrome supply is made by placing the 3/8th nut and ferrule over the chrome supply and tightening. Not to forget that the nut that attaches to the shank of the faucet goes on first and then the nut and furrele are placed on the supply. Chrome supplies are also made for toilets and come in lengths of 12 and 20 inch.
The newest of supplies in the market today is the braided hose. They are a flex hose that have a nut and rubber gasket on either end that makes for an easy connection. They come in 12 and 20 inch for both sinks and toilets. They also come in a 60 inch length for the dishwasher and usually have a 3/8th male by 3/8th compression 90 degree elbow with the hose to connect for this application. Its just a matter of placing teflon on the male thread of the 90 and screwing it into the bottom of the machine and adjoining the flex hose to the fitting. This supply can only be used where the dishwasher is directly beside the sink as its length is an issue. These are by far the easiest of the supply connection, but are a little more costly then the above ones mentioned. These supplies are also made for washing machines and come in a 60 inch length as well. This style of supply is becoming the most popular becuase of its ease of use. It also comes in 3/8th by 3/8 compression and 12 and 20 inches long. Very easy to install this type.
The cost of the supplies are cheapest to most expensive as listed above. It is up to the average homeowner as to what they want to use.
Good luck and happy installs.......leave a question if you wish
Speedway supplies are made in polyethelene, chrome (copper) and braided hose.
Polyethylene supplies come in 12, 20, 30 and 36 inch lengths. They are the cheapest of the supplies to purchase, but last forever. When connecting these supplies to your valve on your waterline it is a must that you use a plastic 3/8th ferrule. The brass ferrule that comes with your shut off valve should not be used on the poly supply. I would also suggest getting a cheap pair of plastic pipe cutters that could save you from a few permanent scares. These cutters can be used for a few different jobs around the house, so it is a good purchase. They also make a poly supply for your toilet that comes in 12 and 20 inch lengths. Depending on the homeowner; if you are not concerned about the look of the poly supply for your toilet; it is the cheaper way to go and will do as good a job as any other type.
Chrome speedway supplies have been around for years. They are made of copper and have a chrome finish to make your plumbing job look finished in style. These supplies come in 12, 20 and 30 inch lengths. This style supply is ideal for places where the supplies are going to be seen. They can be cut to length by using a pair of regular or mini copper cutters. The connection from your valve to the chrome supply is made by placing the 3/8th nut and ferrule over the chrome supply and tightening. Not to forget that the nut that attaches to the shank of the faucet goes on first and then the nut and furrele are placed on the supply. Chrome supplies are also made for toilets and come in lengths of 12 and 20 inch.
The newest of supplies in the market today is the braided hose. They are a flex hose that have a nut and rubber gasket on either end that makes for an easy connection. They come in 12 and 20 inch for both sinks and toilets. They also come in a 60 inch length for the dishwasher and usually have a 3/8th male by 3/8th compression 90 degree elbow with the hose to connect for this application. Its just a matter of placing teflon on the male thread of the 90 and screwing it into the bottom of the machine and adjoining the flex hose to the fitting. This supply can only be used where the dishwasher is directly beside the sink as its length is an issue. These are by far the easiest of the supply connection, but are a little more costly then the above ones mentioned. These supplies are also made for washing machines and come in a 60 inch length as well. This style of supply is becoming the most popular becuase of its ease of use. It also comes in 3/8th by 3/8 compression and 12 and 20 inches long. Very easy to install this type.
The cost of the supplies are cheapest to most expensive as listed above. It is up to the average homeowner as to what they want to use.
Monday, January 24, 2011
Your Washing Machine Is Slow To Fill
You have been running the washer for a while and it is still filling. Over time most homeowners will experience this at least once in a lifetime. Your water contains many different minerals and sediments; every time the machine is used water enters your machine through hoses attached at the back. All washing machines have screens in the back where the water enters into 2 solenoid valves.... one for the hot and one for the cold. These screens eventually get blocked and restrict the amount of water to the machine. Years ago the washers that came with the machine when it was purchased also had screens in them that became plugged over time. You can still purchase these washers with screens today although most hose washers that come with washing machines today do not have a screen.
Turn your water valves off that feeds your washing machine.
Remove a hose off of the back of the machine with the channel locks or pliers.
Note....you will get a little water when you take the hose off; so place the end of the hose in the bucket and the rags on the floor below the connection.
Take the flahlight and look at the connection on the waher. You will see a build up of sediment that has to be taken out.
Take the screwdriver and loosen the sediment on the small screen on the machine where the hose was taken off. Be careful as you do not want to put a hole in the screen.
Now it is time to take the Q-tips and clean away any lose sediment.
Before re-attaching the hose; test that the hose is free of sediment by placing it in the bucket and turning on the water for a few seconds. It does not take much sediment to clog this screen.
Once you have done this; it is time to put the hose back on the washer and turn on your water valve.
Now it is time to do the other hose connection. Note....if you only use cold water there is no need to do the hose on the hot.
Tip....If your washer does not allow you to take on cold water....your solenoid on the machine could have failed. Simply turn your water valves off and switch your hoses and use your hot water cycle. This will allow you to use your washer and get cold water to your machine.
Happy Washing ....if there is such a thing.....leave a question if you wish
Sunday, January 23, 2011
Toilet Trouble
Probably one of the most talked about problems in plumbing is toilets. I am going to make a list of the problems and the solutions on this page.
Problems and Solutions
1. Have to told the handle down to get a good flush. (to empty the tank)
1a. possble cause....The chain or rubber where it is attached to the handle is too long. Shorten the chain or rubber where it is attached to the handle. This will allow the flapper or flush mechanism at the bottom of the tank to lift properly.
2. You have to flip the handle in order for the flap to go back down.
2a. possible cause....Amerian standard toilets have a cannon mechanism in the tank and in this tube shaped part there is a small hole in the bottom of it that is more then likely plugged and if so a small piece of wire will clear this opening and allow the trip mechanism to fall back down after the flush.
Problems and Solutions
1. Have to told the handle down to get a good flush. (to empty the tank)
1a. possble cause....The chain or rubber where it is attached to the handle is too long. Shorten the chain or rubber where it is attached to the handle. This will allow the flapper or flush mechanism at the bottom of the tank to lift properly.
2. You have to flip the handle in order for the flap to go back down.
2a. possible cause....Amerian standard toilets have a cannon mechanism in the tank and in this tube shaped part there is a small hole in the bottom of it that is more then likely plugged and if so a small piece of wire will clear this opening and allow the trip mechanism to fall back down after the flush.
2b. possible cause....With other style toilets it could be the float needs to be adjusted up after all the water has left the tank because if the float has dropped to low it will not allow the flapper to drop back down. There is usually 2 adjusting screws on the top of the ballcock. The screw to adjust the rod to prevent it from dropping down to low is the small brass one. The screw for adjusting the height of the water in the tank is the one directly in the centre of the ballcock. American Standard toilets have a plastic float and rod that can be adjusted by backing off the plastic bolt and nut that attaches the rod to the ballcock...Once this is set on this style toilet they usually don't have to be adjusted.
3, Toilet continues to run.
3a.possible cause....Flapper in the tank is worn and does not sit flush on bottom of tank opening. New plapper required.
3b.possible cause....Water is running into the standpipe in the tank. Try adjusting the ballcock by adjusting the centre screw on top of it. Turn the screw clockwise to lower the level. There is a waterline height in the tank usually found on the back of the tank. Adjust water to that level. If this does not work, it is possible to replace the ballcock which is not difficult task.
4. Toilet will not flush properly and remove everything in the bowel.
4a. possible cause....Water level is not high enough in tank. Adjust water to proper level by turning centre srew on ballcock counter clockwise that allows more water to enter the tank.
4b. possible cause....If this does not rectify the problem;try taking a bucket of water and pouring it in the bowel to see if the bowel drains properly. If the bowel does drain well;it could be the jets in the bowel are partially plugged. I have seen it before in toilets that use the blue tank blocks for cleanig and toilets on wells that have high mineral counts and the jets get plugged. For the blue block cleaners it is just a waiting game until all the blue has been used. Where minerals are the problem I personally suggest a new bowel although CLR may do the job.
5. Toilet is plugged.
5a. possible cause....Time to take out the plugger.If the plunger does not do the job; a toilet auger is the next step.When you think you have unplugged it, lift off the cover on the tank and just lift the handle slightly to allow water to enter the bowel slowly. Flushing the entire tank of water and not knowing for sure the bowel is unplugged could cause the bowel to over-flow. The auger can turn a pen or toothbrush sideways and allow the water to go down very well but, this type items may still be there. Pens ,toothbrushes and toys are the biggest instigators. I have a little trick I usually do by rolling up a few small pieces of toilet paper and give it a flush. This will give you a good test. If the toilet is still acting up, its time to get out the the tools and lift the toilet
When lifting a toilet ,shut-off the water, empty the water in the bowel, flush the tank and empty the remaing water in the bowel. Place rags around the water connection and disconnect the line from the tank. Pop the covers on either side of the toilet bowel, undo the nuts on the T-bolts, and lift the bowel and place it in a large garbage bag. At this point it is a good idea to get an extra pair of hands to help tilt the bowel back and remove the old wax seal and find the obstruction. Once this is done it is time to reverse the procedure. Use a new wax seal and T-bolts everytime you set a toilet.
good luck...the old plumber
Toilets can be a pain in the butt,but its hard to live without one....leave a question if you wish
Saturday, January 22, 2011
How To Solder Copper Joints Correctly (pipe and fiiting)
Soldering copper pipe is one of the easiest tasks when it comes to plumbing repairs. Although it does take time it is quite simple to do with a little bit of patience. The only thing that makes it difficult is water and that usually can be rectified. Once this is taken care of soldering is a breeze.
Tools required for this job include; A torch and igniter, sand cloth, steel wool, flux, lead free solder, copper cutters, a fitting brush is not a necessity,but it does make cleaning the inside of the fitting faster, mini cutters maybe required depending on where the pipe is located, a bucket, a few rags and a camera to take a picture after you have accomplished a great job.
1. Turn off the water coming into your house or if you are on a well... the valve in your line leaving your pump tank. Little tip...I always turn off the valve to the toilet or flush it as it is possible for the water to syphon from the tank back into the waterlines. Although the ballcocks in the tanks are made to be anti-syphon I don't take the chance.
2. Open the faucet in your home at the lowest place which would be your basement if you have one.
3. Then go to the spot where the soldering is to take place and clean the pipe with sandcloth or emery cloth as some people call it.
4. After cleaning the section of pipe where you are installing the fitting; it is time to cut your copper pipe. Keep your bucket handy as this is the time you may (will) get a little water. Slant the copper you cut to allow all the water possible to leave the pipe. Once this is done, it is now time to dry the pipe with a rag and shine the copper again with the steel wool. This will remove the marks made by the cutters... (little tip...if there is water still in the pipe;run the torch back and forth slowly under the pipe to dry the remaining water out of the pipe).If you are using the torch to remove the remaining water; you may have to clean the pipe again to give it the shine that is required. It is now time to apply a skim coat of flux on the pipe.
5. If you have not cleaned your fittings to be soldered, this is the time to get that done. Use a fitting brush or steel wool on the inside of the fitting. Check to see if all of the fitting is shiny and there are no stains or dirt inside the fitting and apply a skim coat of flux on your fitting.
6. Now it is time to slide the copper fitting over the copper pipe and light the torch. Apply the heat to the bottom of the joint (the torch should be held at a distance where the tip of the blue flame (cone) is at the joint as this is where the highest temperature of the flame is located) .
7. Once the heat has been applied for a short period of time; rmove the torch away and apply the solder directly on top of the joint. The solder will run around the joint and capillary attraction will draw the solder up and into the fitting.Do not apply to much heat as this will remove the temper from the copper and reduce the life expectancy of the copper.
8. Once your solder has run (flowed) into the joint,allow the joint to cool a bit and solidify (a minute should be suffice) and wipe the joint with a rag to remove the remaining flux.
9. Now it is time to get the camera and snap a photo of your work. Congrats........Leave a question if you wish
Tools required for this job include; A torch and igniter, sand cloth, steel wool, flux, lead free solder, copper cutters, a fitting brush is not a necessity,but it does make cleaning the inside of the fitting faster, mini cutters maybe required depending on where the pipe is located, a bucket, a few rags and a camera to take a picture after you have accomplished a great job.
1. Turn off the water coming into your house or if you are on a well... the valve in your line leaving your pump tank. Little tip...I always turn off the valve to the toilet or flush it as it is possible for the water to syphon from the tank back into the waterlines. Although the ballcocks in the tanks are made to be anti-syphon I don't take the chance.
2. Open the faucet in your home at the lowest place which would be your basement if you have one.
3. Then go to the spot where the soldering is to take place and clean the pipe with sandcloth or emery cloth as some people call it.
4. After cleaning the section of pipe where you are installing the fitting; it is time to cut your copper pipe. Keep your bucket handy as this is the time you may (will) get a little water. Slant the copper you cut to allow all the water possible to leave the pipe. Once this is done, it is now time to dry the pipe with a rag and shine the copper again with the steel wool. This will remove the marks made by the cutters... (little tip...if there is water still in the pipe;run the torch back and forth slowly under the pipe to dry the remaining water out of the pipe).If you are using the torch to remove the remaining water; you may have to clean the pipe again to give it the shine that is required. It is now time to apply a skim coat of flux on the pipe.
5. If you have not cleaned your fittings to be soldered, this is the time to get that done. Use a fitting brush or steel wool on the inside of the fitting. Check to see if all of the fitting is shiny and there are no stains or dirt inside the fitting and apply a skim coat of flux on your fitting.
6. Now it is time to slide the copper fitting over the copper pipe and light the torch. Apply the heat to the bottom of the joint (the torch should be held at a distance where the tip of the blue flame (cone) is at the joint as this is where the highest temperature of the flame is located) .
7. Once the heat has been applied for a short period of time; rmove the torch away and apply the solder directly on top of the joint. The solder will run around the joint and capillary attraction will draw the solder up and into the fitting.Do not apply to much heat as this will remove the temper from the copper and reduce the life expectancy of the copper.
8. Once your solder has run (flowed) into the joint,allow the joint to cool a bit and solidify (a minute should be suffice) and wipe the joint with a rag to remove the remaining flux.
9. Now it is time to get the camera and snap a photo of your work. Congrats........Leave a question if you wish
Thursday, January 20, 2011
Leaks From the Bathtub
So,you have water leaking from the tub everytime it is used. This is a list of the places where it maybe found.
1.The best way to find the leak is to start from the bottom of the tub.I recently repaired a drain on a tub spud that was not tight. That is the part of the tub that screws into the bottom of the tub. If you can see the tub drain from underneath and this is where it is at;just remove the plug and find a tool (quite often a spanner or set of electrician's pliers will do the job in most cases) ; place it in the drain and slide a screw driver through the boxed end of the wrench;unscrew the spud. Clean it (remove any old putty), replace the putty with plumbers putty by making a snake shape to go around the spud 3/8ths of an inch thick that completely goes around the spud. (you must knead the putty first to make it soft) Tighten in and you should be good to go.(I never recommend taking the spud out unless it is absolutely necessary). Never remove it to clean the drain!
2.The next thing to check is the overflow that is usually located above the bath waste. The best way to check this is to fill the tub with cold water or after you get a bath add additional cold water above the overflow. If the leak is coming from this area becareful as the overflow has a rubber gasket behind the escochen that seals the overflow to the tub. Usually a screwdriver will allow you to remove the overflow. What you want to do is check is that the rubber gasket is alined with the hole. If this is the problem and the rubber gasket is not in the centre of the whole; back the screws off a little to allow you to move the rubber to the centre of the drain and retighten.
3.The drains have been checked and turn out ok. The number one cause of leaks is NO silicone is installed where the spout and faucets come through the wall or side of the tub. When the faucets are installed, there should be silicone applied between the faucet and the hole it passes through. It should also be applied where the pipe for the spout passes through the wall. This is the most common problem fo leaks around tubs.
4.The last place is at the shower arm . If the leak only happens when you are getting a shower; it could be number 2, 3 or 4 because the water boouncing off you may go down around the any openings that are not sealed. It is possible for the shower arm to be corroded and has to be replaced. Undo the shower head and then remove the arm. If it breaks off when you are replacing it, you may need a 1/2 inch pipe extractor to remove the pipe in the wingback elbow or female adaptor. It is possible to pick the joint out of the fitting, but it takes some time to get the hang of this procedure. The new shower haed arms are now made of plastic and brass. Either is exceptable to use; just don't forget to put about 6 wraps of a good quality teflon on the threads before you screw it back into the wall. Do not put the shower head on before you screw it into the wall if the tub has an enclosed top as you may not be able to turn the arm with the head attached.
Hard to beat a warm shower or bath....leave a question if you wish
1.The best way to find the leak is to start from the bottom of the tub.I recently repaired a drain on a tub spud that was not tight. That is the part of the tub that screws into the bottom of the tub. If you can see the tub drain from underneath and this is where it is at;just remove the plug and find a tool (quite often a spanner or set of electrician's pliers will do the job in most cases) ; place it in the drain and slide a screw driver through the boxed end of the wrench;unscrew the spud. Clean it (remove any old putty), replace the putty with plumbers putty by making a snake shape to go around the spud 3/8ths of an inch thick that completely goes around the spud. (you must knead the putty first to make it soft) Tighten in and you should be good to go.(I never recommend taking the spud out unless it is absolutely necessary). Never remove it to clean the drain!
2.The next thing to check is the overflow that is usually located above the bath waste. The best way to check this is to fill the tub with cold water or after you get a bath add additional cold water above the overflow. If the leak is coming from this area becareful as the overflow has a rubber gasket behind the escochen that seals the overflow to the tub. Usually a screwdriver will allow you to remove the overflow. What you want to do is check is that the rubber gasket is alined with the hole. If this is the problem and the rubber gasket is not in the centre of the whole; back the screws off a little to allow you to move the rubber to the centre of the drain and retighten.
3.The drains have been checked and turn out ok. The number one cause of leaks is NO silicone is installed where the spout and faucets come through the wall or side of the tub. When the faucets are installed, there should be silicone applied between the faucet and the hole it passes through. It should also be applied where the pipe for the spout passes through the wall. This is the most common problem fo leaks around tubs.
4.The last place is at the shower arm . If the leak only happens when you are getting a shower; it could be number 2, 3 or 4 because the water boouncing off you may go down around the any openings that are not sealed. It is possible for the shower arm to be corroded and has to be replaced. Undo the shower head and then remove the arm. If it breaks off when you are replacing it, you may need a 1/2 inch pipe extractor to remove the pipe in the wingback elbow or female adaptor. It is possible to pick the joint out of the fitting, but it takes some time to get the hang of this procedure. The new shower haed arms are now made of plastic and brass. Either is exceptable to use; just don't forget to put about 6 wraps of a good quality teflon on the threads before you screw it back into the wall. Do not put the shower head on before you screw it into the wall if the tub has an enclosed top as you may not be able to turn the arm with the head attached.
Hard to beat a warm shower or bath....leave a question if you wish
Wednesday, January 19, 2011
How to fix a leak on your shut-offs under your sink.
There are a few different brands of shut-offs in the market today. A few of them have a nut and packing gland and the other is of a ball valve style with a quick 90 degree turn and the water is off. So,you have turned your water off to repair your faucet and see a leak on the valve. If the valve is the older style which are still very popular today (a few turns to shut the water off) ; it maybe just a matter of holding the valve firmly and tightening the packing nut -giving it a one eighth turn. These valves may even drip a little water when new,but the same procedure will cure your problem. The other style valve would ha ve to be changed out if it is leaking as there is no gland,but an o-ring that makes the seal and prevents the water from leaking... little tip when changing the valve only and leaving the old nut and 5/8 furrele on is to take teflon tape and wrap the ferrule with two revolutions of tape. This has helped me in the past many times.
leave a question if you wish.....
leave a question if you wish.....
Tuesday, January 18, 2011
Sharkbite fittings
Sharkbite is a relatively new product in North America (few years). The fittings are made of brass and are very thick and sturdy. They are a great and quick solution for the average homeowner who wants to make a repair or do a small job around the house. They are also a great product because of the fact there is no soldering. Although, I personally would not recommend them for a long term fix I am a big fan of them for the simple reason is that anyone can use them.
All that is required is a set of copper or plastic cutters, depending on the type of pipe in your home and a leak that may happen on the weekend or evening can be fixed by simply turning off the water ,taking the pressure from the system by turning on a faucet in the basement preferably, cutting the pipe and sliding a Sharkbite cap or valve over the pipe.It is very quick,simple and inexpensive in realtionship to getting a plumber at your home at those times of the day.
I believe Sharkbite is a great product, but I would not use it as a permanent solution as the only seal between the pipe and the fitting is an O-ring. When using these fittings on copper remove the sleeve in the Sharkbite and where it is used on plastic(pex) allow the plastic pipe to slide over the sleeve which will help keep the pipe from expanding and keep its shape.
quick fix solution.....leave a question if you wish
All that is required is a set of copper or plastic cutters, depending on the type of pipe in your home and a leak that may happen on the weekend or evening can be fixed by simply turning off the water ,taking the pressure from the system by turning on a faucet in the basement preferably, cutting the pipe and sliding a Sharkbite cap or valve over the pipe.It is very quick,simple and inexpensive in realtionship to getting a plumber at your home at those times of the day.
I believe Sharkbite is a great product, but I would not use it as a permanent solution as the only seal between the pipe and the fitting is an O-ring. When using these fittings on copper remove the sleeve in the Sharkbite and where it is used on plastic(pex) allow the plastic pipe to slide over the sleeve which will help keep the pipe from expanding and keep its shape.
quick fix solution.....leave a question if you wish
Sunday, January 16, 2011
New style mini cutter.
This is a mini pipe cutter that cuts 1/2 inch copper pipe. It has not been on the market too long, but is a very simple unit. It simply fits on the pipe and then all that has to be done is clamp it down and turn. They also make a 3/4 size. This is a must for those tight spots where it is nearly impossible to turn the screw on the other style cutters. About 3/4 of an inch space behind the pipe is required to put it on and turn it . I rate this cutter as a 10 when it comes to mini's. A must for every plumbers toolbox.
leave a question if you wish
leave a question if you wish
Plumber's light - handyman's as well
I recently recieved this flashlight made by Stanley recently as a Christmas gift. It is a must when it comes to a tradesman, handyman or woman doing work around the house or in the garage. I was very impressed with it and would recommend it to everyone who likes to tinker or dives in on doing odds and ends in repairing things around the house.It holds 3,6 or 9 batteries (that are stored in the legs) that does not make the light any brighter, but does allow the light to last longer. It gives off 20 lumens of light with an LED bulb that is more then sufficient to see anything near or far. The handle consists of three alumimun legs (where the batteries are stored) with a push of a button allowing the light to stand while the head of the light pivots from vertical to horizontal. I give it a 10 in my books when it comes to flashlights.
Note.....I just recently forgot my light under a vanity for 4 days in my own house and it was still on when i found it.....Panasonic double AA plus batteries is what I had in it at the time.
Note.....I just recently forgot my light under a vanity for 4 days in my own house and it was still on when i found it.....Panasonic double AA plus batteries is what I had in it at the time.
Plugged bathtub and sink drains
Plugged Drains: a plugged basin in a bathroom for the most part can be fixed simply by using a plunger. The overflow in the sink must be plugged off (I use a damp rag) in order to achieve the suction and thrust of the plunger which will dislodge most buildups in the drain and allow the water to flow. I personally do not like drain cleaners as they can be harmful to myself and the environment. Just a short note...most drain cleaners contain some type of acid that can be very harmful to you or your family. A bathtub drain is the same;simply plug off the overflow with a plastic bowl (I use another cheap plunger from the hardware store) and remove the stopper in the tub. It is helpful if someone else covers the bathtub overflow while the other person plunges. You can do it yourself ,but it is easier with another pair of hands. Kitchen sink drains are identical as basins and tubs. You must plug off one side of the sink before using the plunger in order for the plunger to push and pull against the blockage.
Little tip... If you can squeeze the plunger down and draw it up over the drain; the contents that are plugging the drain will come up.
In most cases the plunger will loosen the contents and it will go down the drain,but it never hurts to pick the foreign matter out of the sink or tub. If it is absolutely necessary and the drain will not clear; you may take it apart. In most cases; if you have tried the plunger and have had no success,the problem lies beyond the trap under the sink. NEVER take a bathtub drain apart: as in the removal of the spud in the bottom of the tub. The spud is the part of the drain that passes through the bottom of the tub and is screwed to the bottom of the bathwaste under the tub. I have been at this for over 30 years and have never taken a bathwaste apart to clear the drain.Most drains can be cleared with a plunger. Every now and then a plugged sink or basin comes along and requires a small plumbing snake to clear the line that is very easy to use.
leave a quetion if you wish.....
How to apply teflon tape to a threaded piece of pipe.
Appling teflon tape is a very simple procedure. A little tip when it comes to the tape itself is to spend the extra few cents and get the better grade. If teflon is sent with your purchase of a plumbing part; chances are it is very thin and that twice the amount of teflon should be applied. I recommend about 5 revolutions should be applied if it is of good quality. I call good quality being 4 millimetres thick. This will save you time and headaches down the road.
Good luck and have a good day.....leave a question if you wish
Good luck and have a good day.....leave a question if you wish
Friday, January 14, 2011
How to change a leaky moen cartridge.
Changing a moen cartridge is a usually a simple procedure. Moen is one of the best, if not the best faucet on the market today. They give a lifetime warranty on all their cartridges and stand behind their all faucets.
any concerns.....just leave a question
Sunday, January 9, 2011
How to join PEX (Plastic) Pipe for Waterlines
Plastic Pipe (PEX):
Since the invention of plastic pipe in residential homes; a lot of homeowners are becoming do-it yourselfers. Plastic pipe can be installed many different ways. There are many manufacturers competing for today's market. I have used many types and personally prefer Rehau. When I walk away from the home I do not worry about problems when it comes to this system. It is a little more labour intensive and costly, but the end result cannot be beat. Many of the other systems have also been around for sometime, but I prefer this one. Just my personal preferance. This video shows the many ways to join pex pipe.
any concerns....leave a quetion
any concerns....leave a quetion
Copper Pipe
Copper Pipe:
Copper pipe has been around for many years and it has had great success over that time. Many people do not know that there are a two different grades of copper that are used in homes today.If installing copper for your potable water source; the type to be used is type L. This is a thicker wall pipe and will last for many years in most applications for the exception of water with high acid levels. Type M on the other hand is very light and has a thin wall surface.It should be used in heating systems only. The cost of type L compared to type M is substantially higher, but it is wise to put type L in as it should double the life expectancy of your potable water system.
Note....If you are going to spend a considerable amount of money on your renovation or building a new home; do yourself a favour and don't take corners on the plumbing system. I can assure you, it will pay off in the long run if you are installing copper for your potable water. Type L is the way to go.
any concerns....leave a question
Note....If you are going to spend a considerable amount of money on your renovation or building a new home; do yourself a favour and don't take corners on the plumbing system. I can assure you, it will pay off in the long run if you are installing copper for your potable water. Type L is the way to go.
any concerns....leave a question
Leaky Waltec Faucets
Leaky Waltec Faucets:
A leaky faucet can be fixed very quickly with just one or two of the following; stem, cartridge, seat or o-ring in most cases. I personally do not replace just the washer as the price of a cartridge or stem is not expensive and installing a new one can save a few headaches in the near future. When replacing a cartridge that has a washer on it; it is import to check the seat that is located inside the faucet. It is the part that the rubber washer pushes against when you turn off your water. If the seat is rough, it will be just a short matter of time before your faucet is leaking again. Waltec faucets for example, have a short seat for its kitchen and basin faucets and a long seat in the tub faucets. Most homeowners do not know that some faucets have a life time warranty and that your local hardware store will give you a cartridge with no charge attached.
any concerns....leave a question
any concerns....leave a question
Friday, January 7, 2011
Plumbing Made Easy ABC
Having over 30 in the trade I have seen many changes.
Plumbing has changed dramatically over the past number of decades. When I was first introduced to this trade back in the late 70's; the first thing that I was shown was how to cork a cast iron joint with lead and oakum for a drainage system. Since the introduction of plastic for drainage systems and potable water; plumbing has become a much easier product to install and repair. There are now a number of different plastic pipes (pex) used in both residential and commercial applications for water lines. Most drainage systems are made of ABS,which is black in color or PVC, which is grey or white. These pipes are chosen by the application where they are to be used or in what part of the country you live in.
"When it comes to repairing or replacing a part or parts of your plumbing system; most homeowners can make their own repairs without calling outside help."
any concerns...leave a question
Plumbing has changed dramatically over the past number of decades. When I was first introduced to this trade back in the late 70's; the first thing that I was shown was how to cork a cast iron joint with lead and oakum for a drainage system. Since the introduction of plastic for drainage systems and potable water; plumbing has become a much easier product to install and repair. There are now a number of different plastic pipes (pex) used in both residential and commercial applications for water lines. Most drainage systems are made of ABS,which is black in color or PVC, which is grey or white. These pipes are chosen by the application where they are to be used or in what part of the country you live in.
"When it comes to repairing or replacing a part or parts of your plumbing system; most homeowners can make their own repairs without calling outside help."
any concerns...leave a question
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